The city skyline has changed. The Yes I Am The Crazy Skull Lady Shirt old brick tower of the Brains brewery by the station has gone, the grey walls of the prison dwarfed by new apartment blocks. Pile off the train and you still get taken out a long way round, back under the bridge and then up into town, stadium looming ahead of you, and the day kicks on again.
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Wales v England is the conversation all week. Not the weather, or football, but a stroll around the cliches and talking points: can Gareth Anscombe control a game like Dan Biggar? Will England’s kicking game be hoovered up by Liam Williams? Who will win the back-row battle?
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The stadium is a magnet drawing them in from all corners. Strolling in from Roath to the north-west, scattering the last of the Saturday shoppers, coming along the Cowbridge Road from the west. A Cathedral Road pub crawl from the effluent ends of Pontcanna and Llandaff or a brisk walk across Bute Park. Maybe a few looseners down in the bay.
All paths lead to town. If you’re young with a flat or house, mates stay over and mates of mates find space on the floor. If you don’t have a ticket – well, most people don’t. It’s rugby but it’s also an all-dayer and an excuse. It’s why there can be queues to get into Walkabout on St Mary Street before noon and Yes I Am The Crazy Skull Lady Shirt why Caroline Street will be awash shortly after.